Episode 54 - Answering Common Questions with Joe Fitzpatrick (Part 1)

Peggy Farren 2017-10-19

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Episode 54: Answering Common Questions with Joe Fitzpatrick
Episode 54: Commonly Asked Questions with Joe Fitzpatrick




What memory cards should I use with my camera?
-whatever size is recommended for your camera (SD, CF, microSD, etc.)
-read speed vs. write speed
- write speed should be as high/fast as you can get (designated U1, U2, and U3 - U3 is fastest)
- some people prefer to use cards with larger storage so they don’t have to change them or worry about keeping track of several smaller capacity cards
- some prefer to use multiple smaller capacity cards so if one becomes corrupted or lost they don’t lose their whole trip/event
- cards have electronics that can go bad…BACKUPS ARE IMPORTANT!

Other storage options
- Clouds (Adobe, iCloud, Amazon Cloud, Carbonite, etc)
- Dropbox

Should I use a tripod?
Yes - for landscape images of maximum quality
- Make sure your tripod is tall enough for you without extending the center column.
extending the center column creates a monopod, lowers stability, increases shake

How should I clean my camera?
For external cleaning:
FIRST - use a short-bristled paintbrush (purchased and used just for this purpose) to lightly brush off any dust/dirt/sand
DON’T USE a compressed air blower! You may be forcing dirt further into the cracks.
NEXT - try a Rocket Blower, more control, gentler
FINALLY - a damp microfiber cloth will remove any dirt left behind
For glass/lens cleaning:
- LensPen
- Rocket Blower
- Microfiber cloth
- Reverse end of LensPen has carbon to help remove stubborn oily fingerprints
- For serious dirt, or if you still see specks after you’ve cleaned it, take it to a professional for cleaning.

Why are my pictures over/underexposed?
The camera (in automatic mode) wants to make the image an average tonality (18% gray)
If your area of focus is bright, the camera wants to make it darker
If your area of focus is dark, the camera wants to make it brighter
Check your metering modes
- Valued/Matrix: looks at whole scene and compensates
- Center Weighted: examines the center of the scene
- Spot: looks at the spot being focused on **best mode for more control**

EV (Exposure Value) Compensation
If in an automatic mode (P, S, AV…)
- push EV button and dial exposure to +1, +2, or +3 to make image lighter
- dial to -1, -2, or -3 to make image darker or get it “in the ballpark” of correct exposure
If in Manual mode
- change the aperture, ISO, or shutter speed until the needle (meter within viewfinder) moves from 0 to +1, +2, +3 or -1, -2, -3 to compensate

More on exposure
- if shooting in JPEG you have less leeway because so much info. is discarded, you HAVE to shoot to meter
- if shooting in RAW mode, you have some room to play
- can make scene brighter to gain detail in shadows, then tone down highlights later
- when shooting white birds, make scene darker - don’t care about shadow details, want more details of white feathers (Exposure Compensation -1)
- ETTR (Expose to the Right) - check your histogram, push the exposure to the right as far as you can without making it “climb the wall”
- “Blinkeys” highlight/exposure warnings turned on through camera menus
most seen AFTER the image is taken - allows you to correct for next image

Batteries
- for flash, recommend ENELOOP - rechargeable AA’s hold an 80% charge for up to 18 months
- for camera:
worst - counterfeit: sold on eBay or other sites, says made by Nikon/Canon/Sony, etc but ISN’T - if it’s super cheap, it’s no good!
better - 3rd party manufacturers like WASABI, STERLING TECH, POWER2GO have reliable, warranted products that are reasonably priced and give same reporting info. to camera
best - specific to camera, made by camera manufacturer, can be pricey
*many battery manufacturers recommend keeping your batteries at about a 60% charge for longer term storage - don’t let your batteries drain completely, it can ruin them!







See you next week for episode 55!

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